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Alfama

Lisbon's oldest neighbourhood and home of fado

Lisbon's oldest neighbourhood, below São Jorge Castle: a Moorish maze of lanes and steps with fado bars, Lisbon Cathedral and the Miradouro de Santa Luzia.

Aerial view of the historic Alfama neighbourhood with its characteristic red-tiled roofs and narrow lanes.

A Moorish legacy

Alfama is Lisbon's oldest and most original neighbourhood, and the only one that largely survived the 1755 earthquake. The name comes from the Arabic al-hamma (springs). Below São Jorge Castle, a maze of narrow, cobbled lanes, steep steps and small squares tumbles down the hillside to the Tagus, getting lost here is practically guaranteed, and that is exactly the appeal.

Fado and viewpoints

Alfama is the home of fado, Portugal's melancholic traditional song, which drifts out of countless bars come evening. By day, the miradouros (viewpoints) of Santa Luzia and Portas do Sol, Lisbon Cathedral (Sé) and the Fado Museum draw visitors in. Washing lines criss-cross between the houses and older residents sit chatting in their doorways - Alfama is a living village in the heart of the city.

Charm with a climb

As picturesque as it is, the steep, cobbled terrain makes Alfama a demanding place to live with heavy luggage. For a visit, though, it is unmissable, and best explored on foot with no fixed plan.

Around Alfama

Panoramic view of São Jorge Castle and the Tagus estuary with the river in the background.

São Jorge Castle

The Moorish fortress crowns Lisbon's highest hill, with walkable ramparts, peacocks in the courtyard and the best all-round view over the old town and the Tagus.

The Sé de Lisboa cathedral with its distinctive Romanesque towers and facade in the centre of Lisbon.

Lisbon Cathedral (Sé)

Lisbon's oldest church, from 1147, a fortress-like Romanesque cathedral with twin towers, a Gothic ambulatory and treasury, and the yellow Tram 28 outside.

The azulejo pergola of the Miradouro de Santa Luzia above Alfama

Miradouro de Santa Luzia

The Miradouro de Santa Luzia is Alfama's famous viewpoint terrace with a pergola, azulejos and a postcard view over the red rooftops to the Tagus. Free to visit, on the Tram 28 route.

Aerial view of the National Pantheon with its white dome and mosaic roof tiles above the old town of Alfama.

Panteão Nacional

Baroque domed church in Alfama and resting place of great Portuguese figures, from Amália Rodrigues to Eusébio. With a rooftop terrace over the rooftops and the Tagus.

The illuminated Arco da Rua Augusta on Praça do Comércio at the blue hour

Rua Augusta Arch

The monumental triumphal arch links Praça do Comércio with Rua Augusta. A viewing terrace up top looks over the Baixa and the Tagus; the archway below is free to walk through.

Yellow trams of the famous Tram 28 line on Lisbon's steep cobbled streets.

Tram 28

The yellow Carris Line 28E climbs through Graça, Alfama and Estrela, a sightseeing ride at public transport prices, from Martim Moniz to Campo de Ourique.

The sweeping riverside square with classical arcades and a view over the water, Lisbon's largest square.

Praça do Comércio

Lisbon's grand main square, open to the Tagus, with its triumphal arch and equestrian statue. The royal palace stood here until the 1755 earthquake, hence its old name, Terreiro do Paço.